Drill a pilot hole in the furring strip at each mark along the length of the board.
Securing a board to the floor without hilty gun.
Installed this way a thief might cut open the safe but he won t remove it without a chainsaw.
Drill the cabinet floor to match replace the hatch lift and lower the cabinet onto the bolts 2 fender washers a lock washer and a nut on each one.
Drill a guide hole you can easily push the dowel into.
Hold the furring strip against the cinder block at one of the 16 inch marks.
Be sure the mark falls within the blocks not between them.
Does anyone have any good ideas on how to do it.
I have a big dog an alarm system i live next to 2 schools lots of people around and i live a few blocks from a police station.
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If you are joining boards at the edges sink the dowel as deep as possible.
I got a gun safe yesterday and put it in my basement.
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Before i load it up i need to find a way to secure it to the floor.
I was thinking about using expansion bolts but i would prefer to use something that is not 99 9 permanent in case i need to move the safe to another location.
If you are sinking a dowel into the face drill a guide hole down 2 3 of the board s thickness.
The guide hole should be approximately 0 2 inches wider than the dowel.
I always try to lock the doors even when i m home.
If you have a crawlspace you ll might consider just drilling through the floor and using large nuts and washers.
Mechanical fastening systems are code compliant alternatives to puddle welds that offer many advantages to the building owner designer and installer.
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Or you might be able to fasten a safe to floor joists with lag screws.
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Make a mark on the furring strip about every 16 inches along the length of the board.
Pull the trigger and drive a 1 1 2 to 2 inch nail or staple into the tongue at an angle securing the board to the floor while wedging it against the board next to it.
4 load as an alternative.
Then drill and lag horizontally into your wall studs.